Goat Skin
Sheep Skin
Cow Hide
Buffalo Hide
The most confusing term used within the leather industry is the term 'top grain'. Ironically, 'top grain' is the definition generally used when the grain is not genuine; when, in fact, the real grain has been taken away and an imitation grain embossed into the leather. When the genuine grain remains, the leather is called 'FULL Grain' or 'FULL TOP Grain'."
The better the quality of a hide of skin, the less it has to be treated. In a premium quality hide or skin the full natural grain is retained and exposed. One should see the "fat wrinkles," the natural markings, and the feel or hand should be supple and natural to the touch.
Although calfskins are finer than the hides of older animals, they are equal in durability and abrasion resistance because the fiber structure of calfskin is denser, tighter and stronger than that of cowhide. (Some disparity in opinion exists over the relative quality of European hides and skins versus American hides or skins. However everyone agrees that hides or skins in descending order of quality are: calfskin, premium cowhide, premium suede, select cowhide and production run cowhide.
Transforming hides and skins into leather is done in three basic phases: pertaining, tanning, and finishing. Whatever is done to apiece of leather after it is tanned is part of the finishing process. This may include: dyeing, rolling, pressing, spraying, plasticizing, lacquering, antiquing, waxing, buffing, snuffing, embossing, glazing, waterproofing, stain proofing, flame proofing, or any other post-tanning treatment. Full-grain leathers are color-treated only by transparent aniline vegetable dyes, which shade or color the skins without concealing or obscuring natural markings or grain character. Most furniture leathers have been treated with a coating of pigmentation to help even out the color.
Although many finish applications are administered for purposes other than altering or masking the surface of the leather, all applied opaque finishes and airtight surface sealants should be held suspect. Genuine, natural, unpigmented and unplasticized leather will breathe and ventilate, thus wicking away body heat. If upholstery leather is able to breathe, it can absorb moisture, be nourished, and remain soft and pliable. If the surface of the leather has been plasticized, as is the case for most automobile upholstery, the leather cannot breathe and may become stiff and board.
Leather is a material created through the tanning of hides, pelts and skins of animals. Leather was a very important clothing material, and its other uses were legion. Together with wood, leather formed the basis of much ancient technology. Leather with the fur still attached is simply called fur.
Today, most leather is made of cowhides, but many exceptions exist. Lamb and deerskin are used for soft leather in more expensive apparels. The leather made from some more exotic skins has during different times in history been considered very beautiful. For this reason certain snakes and crocodiles have been hunted to near extinction. In the 1990s, farming of ostriches and emus for their meat became popular. As a side product, ostrich leather became a fad for a while. Ostrich leather has a characteristic "goose bump" look because of the large follicles from where the feathers were.
Cow leather is the most commonly used leather within the glove industry due to its plentiful availability. The United States and Australia produce the majority of these hides. The advantages include comfort, durability, excellent abrasion and breath ability. The outer most layer of the hide (where the hair once used to be). This layer of leather has been tanned with the smooth surface visible. Cowhide is the highest quality leather available.
Main Feature: Durable
Goat - Independent tests have proven this to be stronger and more durable leather. The natural lanolin produced by goats help to create the softest, most abrasion resistant leather. This leather is highly recommended for applications requiring tactile sensitivity.
Main Feature: Durable
Cuts of Leather
Grain - Grain leather is the smooth external side of the hide. This type of leather provides durability and dexterity
Split - Split leather is the rougher internal side of the hide. The three different types of split leather is side, shoulder or belly split. Flesh side of the skin, making it more economical leather. It has excellent strength and abrasion resistance, but is sometimes less flexible.
Main Feature: Durable
Side Split - comes from the rib area of the animal. This part of the leather is more durable and provides the greatest protection because of its greater density of fibers.
Shoulder Split - is more economical than side, but less durable. The additional movement in this shoulder area creates less fibers and a more visible texture difference.
Belly Split - is the most economical; however, it has the least consistency of texture and appearance.
Synthetic Leather
CLARINO / PARCASSIO
Man-made leathers Supple, lightweight, and easy to care for, CLARINO is used in ladies' and gentlemen’s shoes, sports shoes, bags, and many other products. In the field of sporting goods, where strength and functionality are required, it is used in such items as shoes, balls, and gloves. Kuraray has recently developed a new material, PARCASSIO, incorporating some of the processes used on natural leather. PARCASSIO offers better air and moisture permeability than earlier man-made leathers, and Kuraray is working to expand this market. AMARETTA
High-grade man-made leathers
AMARETTA
Made of micro fiber, the man-made leather AMARETTA is used in high fashion apparel such as coats and jackets, and is highly regarded in the marketplace. It is also used to cover sofas and in other interior furnishing applications, and has attracted notice in the field of car seat covers. Kuraray is the top manufacturer of man-made leathers, and is working to expand this market.
Applications –Premium clothing –Interior furnishings –Car seat covers
Outer Materials
Schoeller is the best known for its visionary spirit and high-tech approach, which has led to revolutionary innovations over the last 20 years. These include the envelopment of highly functional and high quality stretch fabrics, the incorporation of hardwearing Kevlar? Fibers in to protective fabrics or the creation of fabrics with inherent reflective properties. The company also successfully introduced fabrics based on phase change technology, originally developed for NASA, or with a multifunctional moisture management finish.
Schoeller®-Dynamic: The comfortable one
Profile:
The comfortable all-around fabric for any season. Quick drying and good shape-retention. Permanently elastic, durable and breathable.
Areas of use:
Mountain sports, outdoor pursuits, corporate fashion, ski sports, sportswear, high fashion.
For:
Jackets, pants, overalls. More Detail...
Schoeller®-Dynatec: The powerful one
Profile:
The functional protective fabric with excellent tear and abrasion resistance.
Fashionable looks, comfortable, durable and easy to care for.
Areas of use:
Motorcyclist’s protective clothing, gloves, occupational safety, snowboarding, footwear, accessories, outdoor pursuits, mountain sports, cycling/mountain-biking, high fashion, furnishings. More Detail...
Schoeller®Keprotec®: The extreme one
Profile:
The aramide-fabric with space technology.
Five times stronger than steel, gram for gram.
Extremely tear and abrasion resistant.
Heat- resistant and durable.
Comfortable and easy to care for.
Areas of use:
Motorcyclist’s protective clothing, gloves, occupational safety, ski sports, snowboarding,
footwear, accessories, mountain sports, cycling/ mountain biking, streets wear.
For:
Trim and base material.
LYCRA® is a family of premium stretch fibers that provide fabrics and garments with incomparable fit, comfort, freedom of movement and crease recovery.
With a remarkable ability to stretch up to 600% and spring back to its original length, it can be combined with virtually every other fiber - both natural and manmade - to achieve different levels of stretch and recovery, while retaining the hand and appearance of the majority fiber.
